by GEOFF NUDELMAN

The Western idea of Lunar New Year often includes colorful dragon dancing, loud firecrackers and gifted red and gold envelopes filled with money to promote good luck and prosperity. However, that’s a small snapshot of the traditions and celebrations of the holiday.

“We were always taught it was the most auspicious of holidays, as it dictates how your whole year will unfold,” says Costco member and cookbook author Katie Chin, whose family is Cantonese.

Of course, where there’s family, there’s food. That combination creates the foundation of Lunar New Year celebrations (beginning January 22, 2023) throughout the Asian diaspora, with certain foods and dishes in particular symbolizing luck, health and prosperity in the new year.

Countries across eastern and Southeast Asia have subtle differences in the ways they celebrate Lunar New Year (in China, particularly, there are variations among provinces), but the preparation, presentation and eating of certain foods is one central tradition they all share.

Many foods served throughout Lunar New Year are in the shape of coins or money in an effort to bring good financial fortune. Various versions of small glutinous rice cakes resemble coins. Egg rolls and spring rolls are also staples, as their rectangular shape resembles gold bars.

Dinner tables throughout China often feature a whole fish or chicken served at the table with head and tail intact in an effort to bring wealth and abundance to the entire family. (Also, the Chinese word for abundance sounds similar to the word for fish.)

Costco member Holly Ong, founder of Sibeiho, a Singaporean condiment company, notes that food is such an integral part of the holiday in Singapore that there’s barely any room on the table for anything else. “[In Singapore], this is often the only time of year workers have off, so it makes it even more special,” she says.

Cookbook author Hetty McKinnon, who is Cantonese, says that the foods of the holiday can vary between areas. For instance, in Zhongshan prefecture, where her family is from, gok jai dumplings are stuffed with a savory filling, then steamed, while in neighboring Taishan, they are sweet and deep-fried.

No matter which traditions you practice or foods you choose to serve for Lunar New Year, much of it revolves around getting together with loved ones and creating a good foundation for the next 12 months.

“It’s a time for reflection and being with your family,” says Filipino American chef Dale Talde, who spent several years working in Cantonese kitchens.